The trip late last summer was particularly
adventurous. It would last six weeks, taking Slowinski's team 200
miles into the barely inhabited north of Myanmar, near the border
of China, high into the foothills of the Himalayas. The expedition
started off on foot. Slowinski had taken along bird and frog
experts; he took along a photographer from the California Academy
of Sciences, in San Francisco, where Slowinski was himself a
curator. He also brought along the young Burmese scientists he was
training -- he was teaching them how to inventory their own
forests' biological diversity. Usually on such trips, Slowinski
carried along the creature comforts he most enjoyed, a boom box
and some beer. This time he had only a Discman and some CD's of
California punk rock bands. ''This is probably going to be one of
the hardest things you have ever done,'' he told his teammates.
It was monsoon season, and the rain was
relentless as they climbed up along a mountain. Rivulets cut
through the forest trail; the hikers balanced along small bamboo
bridges; in vain, they soaked their legs with tobacco juice and
even wore nylon stockings to keep the leeches away. Still, Douglas
Long, a bird expert, was amazed at the number of rare and unusual
birds. Slowinski pressed on in his sandals, shorts, and T-shirt,
sometimes passing the others, armed with his Discman and his metal
snake-grabbing stick.
It was early on the fifth day -- on Sept. 11,
in fact -- when Slowinski was bit. They were at the bottom of a
fog-filled jungle valley. Slowinski had reached into a specimen
bag that one of the Burmese field assistants had brought him.
There is still confusion over who said what about the snake in the
bag, but after the bite, Slowinski said, ''I was just bit by a
krait.'' It was a juvenile krait, only about a foot long, banded,
beautiful, and when everyone looked at Slowinski's hand they could
not even see where it had penetrated.
Slowinski waited for symptoms. He ate breakfast
with the team, he even joked around. ''My skin's thick,'' he said.
But afterward, he began to feel a tingling, and this was when he
knew. He called the team together and described what would happen
to his body. He told them that while his brain would continue to
function, while he would be aware of all that was happening around
him, his body would begin to shut down. The venom's neurotoxins
would cause paralysis. He told them that they would have to
breathe for him if he was to survive the bite; after 48 hours his
lungs might restart. ''He laid it all out,'' Long said.
His head began to droop. His eyes began to
close, and his diaphragm stopped working. The two women on the
team gave him mouth to mouth. He stopped being able to speak and
signaled to the team by wiggling his hands or toes: once for yes,
twice for no. When a male member of the team tried to relieve the
two female scientists, he signaled no -- a little joke that amazed
everyone and gave them hope. But eventually, the women were
exhausted, and Slowinski was no longer able to signal. The Burmese
men helped breathe for their mentor.
Meanwhile, two members of the expedition had
run off to a military outpost several miles away. The Myanmar
military tried to fly a helicopter into the campsite, but the
pilots turned back because of the rain and the fog. The next
morning, Slowinski was still alive, but by the afternoon, when the
pilots had finally found a way to bring the helicopter down, he
was gone.
After a small Buddhist prayer ceremony,
Slowinski's body was cremated in Myanmar. His ashes were flown
back to San Francisco, where they arrived along with venomous
snake specimens, some of which may be Slowinski's last newly
discovered species. At the institute where he worked, they hope to
name a new venomous snake after him.
Robert Sullivan is the author of "A
Whale Hunt."